Christie: It was foggy that day. The cold grey blanket was thick, hiding us from the world. But as quickly as they appeared, the fogs parted to reveal land. Could it be that Antarctica had chosen to sneak up on us overnight? Big and small masses of ice stoically watched us, undisturbed by the humans peering over the rails of their big ship. Finally, Antarctica.
The speedboats, or "Zodiacs", were black inflatables with enough space for 14 people to pack together on their floating platform. We coasted among islands of sea ice towards the sound of penguins and seals as the distant call of whales brought comfort to the cold fragile air.
One thing I didn't rely on was rain - in a place so far from the heat of the equator. Yet it rained. Eventually, however, the clouds parted to reveal a startlingly beautiful sunset, shocking even the veteran expeditionist Robert Swan, who had come to Antarctica countless times. In its way, Antarctica was welcoming us to its shores.
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